There is a clear indication that a suit is badly made: the roll of the jacket flap. Stylesmen offers these tips to choose the best option.
It is becoming increasingly difficult to know if a suit is appropriate or not. The arrival of modern cuts and quality fabrics to several “fast fashion” stores, such as Zara and H & M , means that a suit can look and look good without being too expensive or elaborate.
But there is a clear indicative that a suit is badly made: the roll of the jacket flap. In a good quality jacket, the lapel will always show a soft, wavy roll from the shoulders and neckline, down the throat to the point where the jacket is buttoned.
Hemsworth is actually a challenge in tailoring, given that it has a very sculpted physique and wide at the top that is not ideal to wear with a suit jacket (men with bulky bodies at the top always stretch the bag in an unusual way , but if the cut is too generous, the ratio between the bag and the pants is ruined).
Some bags show a perfect roll due to an extensive consideration they have had in its manufacture. Here is the ex-president of Ferrari, Luca di Montezemolo, (on the right) standing next to the current president of Fiat Chrysler (and current president of Ferrari), Sergio Marchionne. The Montezemolo suit is very likely to be custom-made, and the flap roll is exquisite:
But a suit jacket does not have to be sewn to size by a tailor to have a good roll. It also does not have to be extravagantly expensive. But for the most part, cheap sacks have a flap without a roll, but rather flattens just above the first button.
This makes the entire area of the flap, as well as the front of the bag, look awkward or improperly attached to the person using it. A good roll, on the other hand, makes the bag fit very well in the person who uses it and creates a slightly elevated dimension, providing the bag with a depth and a subtle sex appeal.
When testing a suit, be sure to check the roll. Your thumb should be able to find some space as it slides under the flap, going down from the shoulder to the button.
The bottom coat is not what you want. As you can see, the first button seems to be floating in a sea of cloth. In general, the whole sack looks low cost, as it fits poorly and lacks any sign of quality critics, starting with the terrible roll of the lapel.
A defining characteristic of a sac is the flap. It is important that it is well made! It should be one of the first things you should consider when buying a new suit – and if the roll is not right, try another one.