The requirement of the tailor-made suit, or the business of not stitching without thread

The professionals of the fabrics are characterized by not following the trends and can have a suit ready in up to 24 hours. Beyond the quality of the fabrics, the value of the service lies in the individualized treatment and exclusivity of the style.

The ability to highlight the virtues and hide the flaws
The designer Adolf Finseth is not a fan of trends. “I rely on the client,” says the expert who started in tailoring five years ago. It calculates that an advisory lasts 30 minutes, time in which the interested one comments what articles he has in his closet and for what occasion he requires the design.

With these data, the garment sculptor avoids repeating items and expands the possibilities of sets.

Make three visits to the client at home or office. His team is made up of a tailor and a shirtmaker, they help him deliver suits between three and four weeks. “I have been placed in less time, but I have rejected them,” explains Finseth.

The designer has been in charge of costumes between $3,000 and  $10,000. “The quality of the clothing is the same, the price varies for the materials and the service,” adds the businessman who makes orders for any occasion.

Some general suggestions of the expert are based on the client’s body. For a short, thick-textured man, vertical lines, thin lapels and pointy, with a single button for a sharp opening are appropriate. For the tall and thin suggests checkered design and wider flaps. “We try to highlight the virtues and hide the flaws,” says Finseth. 

When the strategy is to go beyond the trends
Len Rodridge is the name of the tailoring that Leoncio Rodríguez attends and that he inherited from his father. Although the majority of customers come to the store, the tailor also comes to the house.

The expert believes that being updated in trends is a benefit, but the differential value of their service lies in working according to the client’s taste without investing so much time in shopping. “The appointment with the client can take between 20 minutes and two hours,” says Rodriguez.

Also, the tailor suggests that executives have at least six suits in black, blue and dark gray. “The client chooses the tone, the lining and the interior design,” adds the businessman.

“The most expensive suit I made cost US $ 15,000. It had four combinations: 10% silk, 30% vicuna, 20% casimir and 40% wool, “says Rodriguez, who also advises on ties, cufflinks, tie clips, suspenders and shoes.

His team of eight people makes twelve suits in eight days, but in high season orders can be delivered up to two months. Also, the tailor says that the fastest a work has been able to work has been 24 hours. However, this express service is only offered on special occasions. 

Harmony also depends on the details
At the moment, Yorgo Stratouris does not offer the service in the office. He has not needed it, since he prefers that the client attests to his work in his atelier in Miraflores.

It has around 400 types of fabrics in its catalogs, which parade under a lamp and pose on the client’s arm until it finds the indicated color and material. During this time, Stratouris examines the interested party’s reactions and offers suggestions.

It has five people who work in his workshop and two external shoemakers. If modifications are required, you can wait 15 minutes for corrections to be made in the same place.

A suit of the brand costs at least S / 2,670. “Only 25% of the price is what the fabric is worth, the rest is paid for the service and manpower”, explains the designer who reveals his passion for details. Stratouris spends 45 minutes taking the measurements and writing down the details of the client’s body. Even taking pictures can be helpful.

The artisan of the dress considers that 80% of the people do not find the indicated attire in the stores. In this profession the importance of the fabrics and interlinings to make a soft, light clothing with a natural fall is highlighted.

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